The stage, step by step
Leaving Portomarín
You leave Portomarín and the route starts gaining height almost immediately. This is not the time to set off at full speed: the first climb continues for several kilometres and takes you towards Gonzar. Keep to a comfortable pace, because the day is only just beginning.
Gonzar and Castromaior
Gonzar offers the first opportunity to stop before continuing towards Castromaior. Afterwards, the route becomes challenging again and strings together another long ascent. There are places to eat, but do not walk assuming that a bar will appear exactly when you feel like stopping.
Ventas de Narón, Ligonde and Airexe
After the central effort come Ventas de Narón, Ligonde and Airexe. The terrain starts to ease and a more continuous descent begins. Fonte da Capela is in this section; further on, Fonte do Peregrino gives you another chance to organise the rest of the day before continuing.
Portos, Lestedo and the arrival
The section through Portos and Lestedo alternates a marked descent with one final short climb. From Os Chacotes, you can sense that Palas de Rei is close, although your legs may feel the last change of pace. The town has more services and is a good place to recover.
What to see on stage 30
Iglesia de San Nicolás
It is in Portomarín, at the start of the stage. Seeing it before setting off makes sense: once you have crossed the town, the route focuses on gaining height and you will no longer have quite the same peace and quiet.
Iglesia de San Pedro
Also in Portomarín, this church forms part of the town’s Romanesque heritage. It is a short visit to make before tackling the first climb.
Iglesia de Vilar de Donas
The Romanesque church of Vilar de Donas is linked to the area around Palas de Rei and is the main monumental attraction associated with the arrival. If you still have time and energy, it is well worth visiting at the end.
Where to sleep in Palas de Rei
Portomarín has several options where you can set off well rested, but if you want to leave early, Albergue Pons Minea is a practical choice. Halfway through the day, Albergue de Peregrinos de Gonzar and Albergue de Peregrinos de Hospital da Cruz allow you to break up the effort. In Ligonde, there is Albergue de Peregrinos Escuela de Ligonde, and at the destination, Albergue de Peregrinos de Palas de Rei. In high season, it is worth booking the intermediate stops.
Where to eat and refuel
For breakfast or supplies before setting off, you can use Restaurante Pons Minea and Spar de Portomarín. Further on, Hostería de Gonzar and Mesón Labrador are specific stops on a day when places to eat are widely spaced. Near the end, Mesón A Brea is another option before reaching Palas de Rei, where you will find more choice.
Practical tips for this stage
Start gently
The first climb is long and the stage still has another significant ascent in store. If you leave Portomarín too strongly, you will feel it before reaching Ligonde.
Carry water from the start
There is not a fountain around every corner. Set off with enough water and use Fonte da Capela and Fonte do Peregrino as reference points.
Do not leave food until the end
Gonzar, Castromaior, Ligonde and Airexe do not form a continuous chain of services. If you set off late, buy something in Portomarín and make use of the stops you find.
Consider splitting the stage
Gonzar, Hospital da Cruz and Ligonde allow you to spend a night en route. If you choose this option, book it before setting off, especially during the busiest periods.
Frequently asked questions about stage 30
How many kilometres is the stage from Portomarín to Palas de Rei?
It is 24.8 km, with an average walking time of 5.5 hours. The route includes 458 m of ascent and 219 m of descent.
Where are the longest climbs?
The first runs from km 0.5 to 6.3 and gains 191 m. The second goes from km 7.3 to 13.8 and includes 186 m of ascent.
Are there places to eat along the way?
Yes, although they are spread out. There are options in Gonzar, in the central section and near Palas de Rei, but do not assume that an immediate stop will always be available.
Where can I sleep if I do not reach Palas de Rei?
You can stop in Gonzar, Hospital da Cruz or Ligonde, where you will find Albergue de Peregrinos de Gonzar, Albergue de Peregrinos de Hospital da Cruz and Albergue de Peregrinos Escuela de Ligonde.
