The stage, step by step
From San Romao da Retorta to Ferreira
The start is peaceful, and the first changes in gradient soon appear. In Ferreira, you can stop at Cantina Ferreira and, if you need to split the day, Albergue Ponte Ferreira is at the start of the route.
Towards As Seixas
Between km 2 and km 4.8, the route descends 58 m at an average gradient of 2.1%. Fonte De San Xurxo De Augas Santas is roughly in this first section; afterwards, you reach As Seixas, where Albergue de peregrinos das Seixas is located.
The climb and the long descent
After As Seixas comes the longest climb: between km 4.8 and km 9, you gain 148 m. The route then loses 207 m between km 9 and km 13, a descent that you will feel in your knees. Fonte de Santo Antonio appears towards the end of the descent.
Entering Melide
The final section becomes undulating again, with another descent between km 13.5 and km 15.3. As you approach Melide, you will find Albergue Alfonso II and, in the town itself, Albergue de Melide, Albergue de Peregrinos de Melide and several private options.
What to see on stage 11
San Romao da Retorta
This is the starting point for a day through inland Galicia. Treat it as a gentle beginning: once you leave the village, services become scarce until you approach Melide.
As Seixas
This small village is both an intermediate landmark and a possible resting point. If the full stage feels too long, Albergue de peregrinos das Seixas offers an alternative before the more demanding section of the route.
Meadows of inland Galicia
The landscape is shaped by meadows and scattered villages, with no major urban centres until the end. It is the last section of the Primitivo where the route's peaceful character is still clearly apparent.
Melide
Melide is a historic meeting point for different routes, and this is where the Primitivo meets the French Way. It is also a good place to try pulpo a feira and prepare for the increase in pilgrims over the following days.
Where to sleep in Melide
If you want to stay overnight before Melide, you have Albergue Ponte Ferreira in Ferreira, Albergue Casa Goriños in As Seixas and Albergue de peregrinos das Seixas. The choice grows considerably at the end: in Melide you will find Albergue de Melide, Albergue de Peregrinos de Melide, Albergue Turístico O Apalpador and Albergue San Antón. There is also the donation-based option O Recuncho do Convento. As Melide is where the French Way crowds begin, booking ahead is advisable in summer.
Where to eat and refuel
Food options along the route are limited. At the beginning, you can stop at Cantina Ferreira, but after that it is best not to expect food at every village. In Melide, there are plenty of choices, including Casa Concha de Senín, Dúas Rúas, Gastroteca A Boa Vida, Adega Mandil, Polbeira Ezequiel, Pulperia a Garnacha and Casa Alongos. For supplies on arrival, try Casa Juanito, Covirán, Froiz or Bandua 24h.
Practical tips for this stage
Set off with enough water
Fonte De San Xurxo De Augas Santas appears in the first section, while Fonte de Santo Antonio comes later in the day. Do not set off assuming there will be a fountain in every village: fill your bottle before leaving the known water points.
Save your energy for the climb
The climb between km 4.8 and km 9 is not extreme, but it is long and sustained. A 207 m descent then follows to km 13; if your legs are tired, use walking poles and take it steadily.
Book your bed in Melide
The Camino changes here: from Melide onwards, you will meet many more pilgrims, including those starting in Sarria to complete the final 100 km. Booking is no longer merely a precaution, especially in summer.
Set off early to avoid the crowds
The average walking time is 8 hours, and beds may become scarce late in the day. An early start lets you walk more calmly and reach Melide before all the groups converge.
Frequently asked questions about stage 11
How long does it take to walk from San Romao da Retorta to Melide?
The stage is 20.3 km long and takes an average of 8 hours. Although the terrain rises and falls, the total ascent is 258 m and the descent is 338 m.
Where can I split the stage?
As Seixas is the clearest place for a long break or an overnight stop before Melide. There you have Albergue de peregrinos das Seixas, as well as Albergue Casa Goriños in the surrounding area.
Where can I refill my water?
The most useful points are Fonte De San Xurxo De Augas Santas in the first section and Fonte de Santo Antonio near km 13.4. Carry water from the start, as there are few obvious points for the rest of the day.
What changes when I reach Melide?
The Primitivo joins the French Way there. The number of pilgrims increases sharply, as does the choice of bars, supermarkets and hostels, but finding a bed may become more difficult.
