The stage, step by step
Pola de Allande and Peñaseita
Leave Pola de Allande with food and water, as options become very limited afterwards. During the first few kilometres, you will pass Fuente de los dos Caños, Fuente de los Burros and Fuente de la Baltasara; Peñaseita lies near the start and is the last landmark before gaining height.
Climbing towards Puerto del Palo
From Peñaseita onwards, the stage becomes distinctly mountainous. The aim is to reach Puerto del Palo and pass the highest point at 1120 m; this is where the Ruta de los Hospitales rejoins the main route.
The descent and further rises
After the high section comes a very steep descent between km 8.5 and 10: you lose 211 m at an average gradient of 14.1%. The respite is brief, because between km 10 and 11 you climb another 69 m, after which the profile alternates between descents and rises as you approach Berducedo.
Berducedo and La Mesa
Berducedo appears around km 17.7 and is the last clear place to buy something before the finish. From there, there is still a 77 m climb between km 17.8 and 19.3, followed by a final descent of 112 m to La Mesa, where the day ends.
What to see on stage 5
Puerto del Palo
This is the stage’s main mountain pass and the point where the main route and the Hospitales variant meet again. The route reaches a maximum altitude of 1120 m, so the weather can change quickly.
Fanfaraón and Valparaíso
The ruins of these medieval hospitals belong to the higher variant arriving from Borres. If you walked the Hospitales, this section completes the ridge crossing before you return to the main route at Puerto del Palo.
Peñaseita
Peñaseita marks the start of the most mountainous part of the day. It is also the last intermediate locality before the climb towards Puerto del Palo.
Berducedo
Berducedo is the main stopping point in the second half of the stage. Its position before the final rises and the descent to La Mesa makes it an important place to rest and replenish your supplies.
La Mesa
La Mesa is the destination for the stage and already lies in a high-mountain setting. Reaching it after 815 m of ascent is noticeable, particularly if you have tackled Puerto del Palo in heat or wind.
Where to sleep in La Mesa
In Pola de Allande, you can set off from Albergue de Peregrinos de Pola de Allande, Albergue Polagrino or La Casita de ABA. If you prefer to shorten the day, Albergue de Peñaseita is very close to the start. Berducedo has several options: Albergue de Peregrinos Berducedo, Albergue Casa Marqués, Albergue Camino Primitivo and Albergue Rural Camín Antiguo. At the destination, you have Albergue de Peregrinos de La Mesa and Albergue Miguelín. Book ahead, especially if you want to stay in Berducedo or La Mesa.
Where to eat and refuel
Pola de Allande is the last place with a reasonably complete choice of food: you can buy supplies at Magadán or Covirán and eat at La Nueva Allandesa, Café Centro or Cafeteria Lozano; Jaybor and Bar Queipo are also available. Shortly after leaving, you will pass Bar Casa Viñas, but do not plan the stage as a pub crawl. In Berducedo, Autoservicio is available for supplies, and after that the choice is very limited: leave Pola with enough food and do not leave dinner until the end.
Practical tips for this stage
Set off with water and food
Fuente de los dos Caños, Fuente de los Burros and Fuente de la Baltasara appear near the start, but afterwards you should not count on a succession of water points. The practical advice is simple: fill up in Pola and carry enough energy for the entire climb.
Take the 815 m seriously
This is the greatest accumulated ascent on the entire Camino Primitivo. Walk at a slow, steady pace from the beginning; if you push hard at the start, Puerto del Palo and the later rises will feel very long.
Protect your knees on the descents
The descent between km 8.5 and 10 loses 211 m at an average gradient of 14.1%. Use poles if you are accustomed to them and do not rush downhill: there are still climbs and kilometres to cover before La Mesa.
Carry warm clothing even on a sunny morning
The stage reaches 1120 m and the weather can be colder and windier in the high section. In spring, autumn and winter, carry protection against rain and wind; in snow or ice, take extra care.
Make the most of Berducedo
Berducedo is the last clear opportunity to buy supplies before the finish. If you need anything for the afternoon or the following morning, do not leave it until La Mesa.
Frequently asked questions about stage 5
Is the stage from Pola de Allande to La Mesa the hardest?
It has the greatest accumulated ascent of the entire Primitivo: 815 m over 22.8 km. The average duration is 7.6 hours and the terrain is mountainous, so it is best tackled without rushing.
Where is Puerto del Palo?
It is in the high section of the stage, after Peñaseita and before the descent towards Berducedo. The route reaches 1120 m there and the Hospitales variant rejoins the main route.
Is there water after Peñaseita?
Fuente de los dos Caños, Fuente de los Burros and Fuente de la Baltasara appear in the first few kilometres. Afterwards, do not rely on finding water, so you should leave Pola well supplied.
Where can I buy food during the stage?
Pola de Allande is the best place to stock up, with Magadán and Covirán. Further on, you may find Autoservicio in Berducedo, but do not expect a similar choice before reaching La Mesa.