The stage, step by step
Leaving Melide with every service to hand
Melide is a good place to have breakfast, buy provisions and deal with any last-minute problem before setting off. Around the start, you will find Albergue de Peregrinos de Melide, Albergue de Melide, Albergue Arraigos and Albergue O Cruceiro.
The descent towards Boente
The route climbs gently by 41 m between km 1 and km 3.8, then descends 115 m to km 6.5. Boente appears in this section; useful landmarks there include Albergue Boente and Iglesia de Boente.
From Boente to Ribadiso
After the descent, the route climbs 61 m between km 6.5 and km 7.8. Ribadiso is a natural stopping point, with Albergue de Peregrinos de Ribadiso and, further on, Albergue de Ribadiso. If you need food, Bar Manuel is towards the final section before Arzúa.
The final descent and arrival in Arzúa
Between km 9.3 and km 11 there is another marked descent, followed by the final climb to Arzúa. The arrival has plenty of services and accommodation, including Albergue de Peregrinos de Arzúa, Carrefour Express and bar Salazón.
What to see on stage 12
Iglesia de Boente
The Romanesque church of Boente is one of the day's heritage highlights. It stands beside a village closely linked to the passing of pilgrims and makes a useful landmark for mentally dividing the stage.
Boente
Boente appears after you have completed the first part of the day, just as the more noticeable changes in elevation begin. It is a good place to pause before continuing towards Ribadiso.
Ribadiso
Ribadiso is the natural gateway to Arzúa and one of the route's most recognisable points. You can use it as an intermediate stop or as a shorter finish if you would rather not walk in a hurry.
Arzúa
For centuries, Arzúa has been a place where pilgrims pass through and find shelter. Today it is also known for Arzúa-Ulloa cheese, a soft cheese with a delicate aroma, perfect for restoring your energy at the end of the day.
Where to sleep in Arzúa
There is a wide choice at both ends of the stage. In Melide, you can choose between Albergue Arraigos, Albergue O Cruceiro and Albergue Melide; in Boente, there is Albergue Boente. Ribadiso offers Albergue de Peregrinos de Ribadiso and Albergue de Ribadiso, while in Arzúa you have Albergue de Peregrinos de Arzúa. Since the Primitivo joins the French Way, booking ahead is recommended, especially if you are walking in summer.
Where to eat and refuel
Melide has plenty of food options: Polbeira Ezequiel, Pizzería Xoldra, Casa Alongos and Pulperia a Garnacha are some of the main references at the start. Between Melide and Arzúa, stops are more spread out among small villages such as Boente, Castañeda and Ribadiso; the clearest option is Bar Manuel, beside the river in Ribadiso. On arrival in Arzúa, you can shop at Carrefour Express or Arzucent and eat around Salazón.
Practical tips for this stage
Do not be fooled by the distance
The 14.3 km make it possible to walk without rushing, but the descents between km 3.8 and km 6.5 and between km 9.3 and km 11 have average gradients of 4.2% and 5.8%. The final section climbs again towards Arzúa.
Carry water from Melide
Fonte da Quenlla appears near Arzúa, not at the beginning of the stage. Leave Melide with a full bottle and do not plan the day around finding fountains along the way.
Book even though it is a short stage
The distance may tempt you to set off late, but you are now sharing the route with pilgrims on the French Way and with those starting in Sarria to complete the final 100 km. Setting off early or booking a bed means you can walk without worrying about availability.
Make the most of Arzúa for a rest
If you are tired after harder days, this stage gives you a chance to recover. Arzúa has accommodation, supermarkets and pharmacies, making it a good place to look after your feet and prepare for the next day.
Frequently asked questions about stage 12
Is this an easy stage?
It is one of the easiest stages of the Primitivo: it is 14.3 km long, mostly flat and has 186 m of ascent. Even so, the descents and the final climb to Arzúa require care if you have blisters or overworked muscles.
Where can I stop halfway?
Boente is the main reference point and lies roughly halfway along the route. Ribadiso comes later, with Albergue de Peregrinos de Ribadiso and Albergue de Ribadiso.
Are there many people on this stage?
Yes. From Melide onwards, you are walking with the flow of the French Way, including pilgrims who started in Sarria. In summer, it is best to set off early and have your bed booked.
What can I buy when I reach Arzúa?
There are supermarkets such as Carrefour Express, Claudio Express and Arzucent at the end of the stage. You can also deal with any pharmacy needs at Manuel Saavedra Robledo.
