The stage, step by step
Leaving Pontevedra prepared
Pontevedra has all the services you may need before walking: Café Bar La Catedral, El Dulce De Leche, Peregrinus and supermarkets including Froiz, Dia, Aldi and Gadis. You can also spend the night at Albergue de Peregrinos de Pontevedra before starting.
The central climb
The route gains height steadily between km 4.1 and 8.3, climbing 97 m at an average gradient of 2.3%. It is a manageable climb, but long enough to make itself felt if you leave Pontevedra too quickly.
Descending towards Caldas de Reis
After reaching the high point, the route first descends between km 8.3 and 10.5, then continues to lose height gently until km 17.6. Albergue de Peregrinos A Portela is roughly halfway through the stage, with another municipal hostel further on if you need to split the day.
A thermal arrival
The final kilometres lead to Caldas de Reis, where you’ll find Albergue Vintecatro, Albergue a Queimada, Albergue Timonel and Albergue As pozas Termais, almost all close to the bridge over the Umia. For dinner or a drink, Tia Maruja and Número 2 are beside the finish.
What to see on stage 23
Caldas de Reis
The town grew around its hot springs, already in use in Roman times, and the Way crosses it over the bridge across the Umia, between the spa and the arcades. It is a compact, pleasant arrival that is best enjoyed without rushing.
A Burga
A Burga is the public thermal fountain beside the main street, where the water emerges at over forty degrees. The classic scene on this stage is pilgrims sitting on the edge with their feet in the water; it is free and right beside the route.
The woodlands of inland Galicia
The route gradually leaves Pontevedra’s urban surroundings and enters an inland landscape of native woodland and eucalyptus. The central climb and subsequent descent take you through this change of scenery.
Where to sleep in Caldas de Reis
In Pontevedra, you can choose between Aloxa albergue, Albergue Nacama, GBC Hostel, Acola Rooms, Slow City Hostel and Turoqua Hostel. Halfway along the route there is Albergue de Peregrinos A Portela, followed further on by the municipal hostel. In Caldas de Reis, options include Albergue Vintecatro and Albergue a Queimada, as well as several private places in the town.
Where to eat and refuel
Pontevedra offers plenty of places for breakfast and shopping: Café Bar La Catedral, La Pepita Burguer Bar, Peregrinus, Froiz, Dia and Peregrino Market are near the start. Afterwards, services become more intermittent, so don’t expect to find a bar in every village. In Caldas de Reis, options become plentiful again, with Tia Maruja, Blue Ice and Número 2 just a few metres from the finish.
Practical tips for this stage
Have breakfast in Pontevedra
The starting point has the greatest choice of services during the day. Take the opportunity to buy supplies at Froiz, Dia, Aldi or Peregrino Market before entering the quieter section.
Pace the climb
The climb between km 4.1 and 8.3 is not especially steep, but it is sustained. Keep to a comfortable pace and don’t try to make up time at the beginning.
Carry spare water
The named fountains are concentrated around Pontevedra, including Fonte de Curros Enríquez, Fontana da Verdura and Fonte dos Tornos. Leave with enough water to reach the finish without relying on an improvised stop.
Book the thermal finish
If you want to stay in Caldas de Reis and make the most of A Burga on arrival, book ahead at Albergue Vintecatro, Albergue a Queimada or Albergue O Cruceiro.
Frequently asked questions about stage 23
Is it an easy stage because there is little elevation?
It is moderate, but not completely flat. It is 21.1 km long, includes 152 m of ascent and has a sustained climb between km 4.1 and 8.3.
Where is the main climb?
The clearest climb runs from km 4.1 to 8.3. It gains 97 m at an average gradient of 2.3% and takes up much of the first half.
Are there services throughout the route?
No. Pontevedra has most of the services at the start and Caldas de Reis has them at the finish; between the two, it is best to carry food and water.
What makes Caldas de Reis special?
It is a thermal town known for the natural waters of A Burga. It is a particularly pleasant arrival after the descent in the second half.
