The stage, step by step
Llanes, Poo and the first coastal stretch
Leave Llanes with all your supplies and services sorted, and head towards Poo de Llanes. The first part combines coastal paths, cliffs and beaches such as Palombina, Torimbia and San Antolín; it is the most rewarding section visually, but it is also important to keep an eye on the time.
Naves and the climb from km 6.3
A 68 m climb begins as you pass through Naves, between km 6.3 and km 10.8. You then descend 66 m to km 12 at an average gradient of 5.3%—two successive changes in profile that will be noticeable if you have left Llanes too quickly.
Nueva and the long stretch towards Cuerres
From km 12 to km 17 you face another climb, this time of 69 m with an average gradient of 1.4%. Nueva is a good place to check your water and food; if you need to buy something, Casa Villar is there.
Cuerres, San Esteban de Leces and Ribadesella
The stage continues towards Cuerres and approaches Ribadesella through the area around San Esteban de Leces. The descent between km 21.3 and km 23.3 loses 62 m, after which the final stretch to Ribadesella remains, with services concentrated there once again.
What to see on stage 17
Monasterio de San Salvador
Celorio preserves the remains of this 11th-century monastery, now integrated into the setting around the local church. It is one of the most interesting heritage sites in the first half of the stage.
Iglesia de San Pedro de Celorio
Its large bell tower stands out along the route through Celorio. You can see it on the coastal section before tackling the climbs further on.
The beaches of Palombina, Torimbia and San Antolín
All three lie in the first half of the stage. They provide a change of pace and scenery before the inland sections towards Nueva and Cuerres.
Iglesia de San Esteban de Leces
This is a Romanesque church rebuilt in 1958 after suffering damage during the Spanish Civil War. It has a single nave, a semicircular apse and a decorated window.
Ribadesella and the River Sella
Ribadesella is known for boating on the River Sella and canoe descents. Arriving here after 30 km allows you to finish the day beside one of Asturias’s most recognisable river landscapes.
Where to sleep in Ribadesella
Llanes has several options for starting the day: La Casona del Peregrino, Albergue la Estacion Llanes and Albergue de la Juventudes. In Poo there is Albergue de Poo; further on you will find Casona Celorio and The Old Seaman. Before Ribadesella, consider Albergue La Llosa de Cosme and Albergue Casa Rectoral de Pria. Pilgrim accommodation is spread out before the finish, so I would not leave booking a night in Ribadesella until the last minute.
Where to eat and refuel
In Llanes you can have breakfast or buy supplies at Alimerka, and find a table at El Bodegon, La Fontana or Puertu Chicu. Options become more intermittent between Poo, Naves, Nueva and Cuerres; in Nueva, Casa Villar is a useful place to restock. In Ribadesella, bars, restaurants and cafés appear again, including Café La Villa and Café La Playa.
Practical tips for this stage
Start early
With 30 km and an average walking time of 6.7 hours, setting off early lets you enjoy the coastal section at your leisure and reach Ribadesella without turning the final kilometres into a race.
Fill your bottle in Llanes
All the water points on this stage are in the second half: the first does not appear until after kilometre 21, and La Fuentina is practically in Ribadesella. That means more than twenty kilometres without water, so leave Llanes with your bottles full.
Two blocks of climbing
The 68 m climb between km 6.3 and km 10.8 and the 69 m climb between km 12 and km 17 are long, although gentle. Keep your pace conservative from the start.
Book the midway accommodation
If you want to stop before Ribadesella, confirm a bed at Casona Celorio, Albergue La Llosa de Cosme or Albergue Casa Rectoral de Pria. These are specific stopping points, and it is best not to improvise on a 30 km stage.
Frequently asked questions about stage 17
How long does it take to walk from Llanes to Ribadesella?
The distance is 30 km and the average walking time is 6.7 hours. The terrain is hilly, with 211 m of ascent and 184 m of descent.
Where are the main climbs?
There is a 68 m climb between km 6.3 and km 10.8 and another of 69 m between km 12 and km 17. Between them comes a 66 m descent with an average gradient of 5.3%.
Are there villages where I can buy food?
Llanes is the most comprehensive option, and Nueva has Casa Villar for restocking. Choices are more irregular between Poo, Naves and Cuerres, so set off with enough food.
Which accommodation is available before Ribadesella?
Along the stage you can find Albergue de Poo, Casona Celorio, The Old Seaman, Albergue La Llosa de Cosme and Albergue Casa Rectoral de Pria.