The stage, step by step
Astorga and Valdeviejas
Leave Astorga with your rucksack prepared for the climb. In Valdeviejas, you may find Albergue Municipal Ecce Homo, but after that the day enters a long ascent. The change is noticeable early on: each kilometre calls for more patience than the last.
Murias de Rechivaldo
Murias de Rechivaldo comes after the first uphill section and offers a definite break at Bar Casa Félix. For accommodation, there are Albergue Hosteria Casa Flor and Albergue Municipal de Murias de Rechivaldo. You can still recover your strength here before the path becomes more isolated.
The Castrillo turn-off and Santa Catalina
In Murias, a signed variant branches off through Castrillo de los Polvazares; the main route continues straight towards Santa Catalina de Somoza. Whichever you choose, the feeling of the plain has completely disappeared. In Santa Catalina, there are three albergues for such a small village: El Caminante, Hospedería San Blas and La Bohème.
El Ganso and Rabanal del Camino
The climb continues towards El Ganso, where you will find Albergue Gabino, and then reaches Rabanal del Camino. There, you can rest at Albergue Municipal de Rabanal del Camino. Rabanal is the point to keep in mind if the ascent takes longer than expected.
The final stretch to Foncebadón
There is still an uphill stretch from Rabanal to Foncebadón. A short, steady stride works better than changing pace; at the top, Albergue Parroquial Domus Dei and El Trasgu de Foncebadón can help you close out the day.
What to see on stage 23
Astorga: the Palacio de Gaudí and cathedral
Before starting the climb, it is worth spending half an hour in the square where the Palacio Episcopal de Gaudí and Catedral de Santa María face each other. The palace, with its pale granite and pointed towers, looks unlike anything else you have seen on the plateau. If you are leaving Astorga before dawn, seeing it the previous afternoon is the only way not to miss it.
Castrillo de los Polvazares
Castrillo is a Maragato village of cobbled streets and reddish stone houses, famous for its cocido. Be aware that it is not on the main route, but on a signed variant that branches off at Murias de Rechivaldo and adds around one kilometre. If you are short on energy during a stage with 630 m of ascent, you may prefer to leave it for another trip.
Rabanal del Camino
Rabanal del Camino comes after El Ganso and is the decisive break before the final stretch. You can rest here, check your water and decide whether to continue to Foncebadón at your current pace.
Foncebadón
Foncebadón appears high up, at the end of a sustained climb from Astorga. The arrival feels quieter and more mountainous than the previous finishes, and the accumulated effort is clear as you enter the village.
Where to sleep in Foncebadón
To split the ascent, Murias de Rechivaldo offers Albergue Municipal de Murias de Rechivaldo; Santa Catalina de Somoza has Albergue y Centro de turismo rural El Caminante. El Ganso has Albergue Gabino and Rabanal del Camino has Albergue Municipal de Rabanal del Camino. If you complete the stage, you can look for a bed at Albergue Parroquial Domus Dei in Foncebadón.
Where to eat and refuel
Astorga is the safest place to stock up: Las Termas Restaurante and Casa Maragata allow you to eat before climbing, while Alcampo is useful for filling your rucksack. Murias de Rechivaldo has Bar Casa Félix. Options become scarcer afterwards, although Foncebadón has El Trasgu de Foncebadón; do not rely on finding a table or shop during the ascent.
Practical tips for this stage
Set off early
The climb gains 630 m and continues for almost the entire day. An early start helps you avoid the hottest hours and leaves time for breaks without turning the finish into a race.
Climb with a short stride
The uphill section begins at around km 1 and maintains an average gradient of 2.5%. Do not try to make up time at the beginning: here, the aim is to reach Foncebadón in good shape.
Do your shopping in Astorga
Astorga is the last city before Ponferrada, and from here services are spread among villages of twenty houses that may be closed outside the season. Leave with plenty of food and water, and use Murias de Rechivaldo, Santa Catalina de Somoza or Rabanal del Camino to replenish whenever you find something open.
Book at altitude
Rabanal del Camino and Foncebadón are common places to split the ascent. If you want to sleep there, confirm a bed in advance, especially in high season.
Frequently asked questions about stage 23
Is this a very difficult stage?
Yes. It is 25.8 km with 630 m of ascent and just 13 m of descent. The climb begins at around km 1 and reaches 1,496 m.
Where can I split the day?
Murias de Rechivaldo, Santa Catalina de Somoza, El Ganso and Rabanal del Camino all have accommodation. Rabanal is the clearest reference point before Foncebadón.
Where is it best to buy food?
Astorga has the widest choice, including Alcampo, Mercadona and other shops. Afterwards, it is best to carry provisions rather than depend on each village.
How long does it take on average?
The average duration is 5.7 hours, although the continuous climb, the weight of your rucksack and stops can make the day longer.