The stage, step by step
Leaving Muxía and the initial climb
The first kilometres leave Muxía along paths and tracks that soon begin to gain height. Between kilometres 2 and 7.3, you tackle 249 m of ascent at an average gradient of 4.7%, so take it steadily from the very beginning.
Descending towards the coast and Lires
After the climb comes a 141 m descent between kilometres 7.3 and 11.5. The route alternates between woodland, rocky tracks and small roads as you approach Lires, the only intermediate stop with services on the entire stage.
Lires and the climb afterwards
Lires lies roughly halfway through the stage, with its church of Santo Estevo and the Pensión As Eiras as landmarks. As soon as you leave it behind, the route becomes demanding again: between kilometres 16.3 and 18.5, you have to climb 97 m.
Entering Fisterra and walking to the lighthouse
The final part includes another climb between kilometres 21 and 23.8, gaining 92 m, followed by a 108 m descent to kilometre 26.3. After the last coastal settlements, you enter Fisterra, but there is still a final rise to the lighthouse, with the cliffs beside you.
What to see on stage 4
Church of Santo Estevo de Lires
The parish church of Lires is a 17th-century building constructed to replace an earlier one closer to the estuary, where it was affected by flooding. It stands at a regular stopping point on the route, with services and accommodation nearby.
Monte Facho
Monte Facho rises just above the lighthouse and is an optional final outing for anyone with legs left: a little over half an hour on a path to see the whole cape from above. Its name comes from the fachos, the fires once lit here to warn ships of the dangers of the Costa da Morte.
Fisterra Lighthouse
The historic lighthouse was built in 1853 and has an octagonal tower 17 m high. It stands on a cape of steep cliffs, at a place considered for centuries to be the western edge of the known world.
Church of Santa María das Areas
This 12th-century church, with later alterations, stands in Fisterra on the route up towards the lighthouse. Inside is the image of Santo Cristo da Barba Dourada, deeply venerated by local fishermen.
Gothic Cross of Santa María das Areas
Beside the church stands a 15th-century Gothic cross with equal arms, one of the oldest surviving in Galicia. It can easily be overlooked beside the lighthouse, but is worth the minute it takes to stop and look.
Where to sleep in Fisterra
Muxía offers plenty of places to stay, including Albergue de Peregrinos de Muxía, Albergue Bela Muxía, Albergue Arribada, Albergue Muxía Mare, Albergue Muxía and Albergue da Costa. Halfway along, in Lires, you can spend the night at Pensión As Eiras if you prefer to split the stage in two. In Fisterra, you have Albergue de Peregrinos de Fisterra, Hostel Albergue Oceanus, Albergue Cabo da Vila, Albergue Mar de Rostro and Albergue de Sonia Buen Camino; book ahead in August.
Where to eat and refuel
Muxía is the best place to have breakfast and buy food before setting off: Sondemar, O Cornecho, A Casa do Peixe, Bar Restaurante El Riojano, D'Álvaro, As Baleas, A Furna and Praia das Lanchas, as well as Froiz and Casa Cuíñas. Lires is the only intermediate stop with services, and you should not expect to find anything open in the villages that follow. On reaching Fisterra, you can try La Frontera, A Galeria Bibliotaberna or Cafe Bar Canario, and buy supplies at Covirán, Familia, Froiz or Claudio.
Practical tips for this stage
Leave Muxía with water
Fonte de Chorente appears near the start of the route, but refilling afterwards is less convenient. Fill your bottle in Muxía and do not wait until you are thirsty to look for the next water point.
Lires is your best plan B
Lires is approximately halfway through the stage and has services and accommodation. If you are running low on energy, it is a sensible stopping point; if you continue to Fisterra, try to arrive with enough time to tackle the final section without rushing.
Carry protection against the weather
Fog, strong winds and rain can appear on the Costa da Morte even in summer. Carry a waterproof layer and something warm, even if the morning starts clear.
Respect the cliffs
The final section includes exposed areas and little shade. Keep away from the edge, stay on the marked route and take extra care in fog or when the ground is wet.
Frequently asked questions about stage 4
How long does it take to walk from Muxía to Fisterra?
It is 29 km, with an estimated average duration of 6.4 hours. The distance is manageable, but the constant ups and downs and coastal terrain can easily extend the day.
Where is the best place to stop halfway?
Lires is the clearest intermediate stop. You can rest and eat there and, if necessary, spend the night at Pensión As Eiras before tackling the second half towards Fisterra.
Which is the most demanding climb?
The first climb gains 249 m between kilometres 2 and 7.3, with an average gradient of 4.7%. There are further rises afterwards, so it is best not to use all your energy when leaving Muxía.
Does the stage finish at the lighthouse?
The stage destination is Fisterra, but the route does not really finish until the lighthouse, around three kilometres beyond the town. On the way, you can visit the church of Santa María das Areas and its 15th-century Gothic cross.
