The stage, step by step
Downhill from Bruma towards Mesía
You leave Hospital de Bruma downhill, descending 108 m between km 1.7 and km 5.1 at 3.1%, through grazing land and farmland. Casa Graña is right at the start, followed by Cafe Bar Uzel around km 3.6. Have your coffee there even if you do not feel like it: it is the last convenient opportunity for many hours.
Poulo and Ardemil
The route links a series of rural settlements before reaching Poulo, where there is a short climb of 55 m between km 8.4 and km 9.8, at 4.1%. Right there, around km 9, stands Albergue de Peregrinos Reitoral de Poulo, the only door open to pilgrims in the whole middle section of the stage. Iglesia de Ardemil is the first heritage landmark of the day.
Buscás, Calle and the woods of Os Carrás
From km 9.8 onwards, the profile flattens and the route becomes a string of hamlets: A Senra, A Calle, O Carballo and A Casanova, with the surface switching from dirt to tarmac every so often. This is where you will find Iglesia de San Paio de Buscás and Iglesia de San Xoán de Sarandóns, as well as the finest part of the day: the quiet, shaded woodland paths through Os Carrás.
Fonte da Santiña and entering Sigüeiro
Fonte da Santiña appears around km 19, with Hospedaje La Ruta nearby. This is the moment to fill your bottle: there is just over an hour left to Sigüeiro. The final kilometres climb again, rising 86 m from km 24.3, just as you enter the town and the bars, supermarkets and hostels you have not seen for half a day suddenly reappear.
What to see on stage 2
Iglesia de Ardemil
This is the first of the Romanesque churches you pass during the opening hours of the stage. It reflects the character of this section: heritage scattered among the villages of Mesía and Oroso, without major monumental ensembles but with old stonework in every settlement.
Iglesia de San Paio de Buscás
Romanesque in origin, with 18th- and 19th-century alterations. Look at the doorway, framed by columns with capitals decorated with plant motifs, and especially at the Romanesque figure of San Paio set in a window in the eastern wall of the chancel, in a place where you would not expect to find it.
Iglesia de San Xoán de Sarandóns
Also known as Iglesia de Calle, after the village where it stands. It is the sort of brief stop you appreciate on a long day among rural tracks: a bench, some shade and something to look at besides the next kilometre.
Bosques de Os Carrás
The prettiest and loneliest section of the stage. The paths have retained almost the same appearance they had in the Middle Ages, passing through native woodland and by cruceiros that mark the way. If the day has started to feel monotonous, this is where it changes.
Where to sleep in Sigüeiro
You leave from Albergue de Peregrinos Hospital de Bruma or Albergue San Lorenzo de Bruma, which stand together at the start. Then comes a long gap: Albergue de Peregrinos Reitoral de Poulo around km 9 is the only proper stop before the final stretch, and Hospedaje La Ruta appears near km 18. Everything else is in Sigüeiro and comes all at once: Albergue Segue O Camiño, Albergue Ultreia et Suseia, Albergue Camiño Real and Albergue de Delia, almost one after another. As this is the last overnight stop before Santiago, it fills up quickly in summer; book ahead or arrive early.
Where to eat and refuel
Casa Graña is just after leaving Bruma, and Cafe Bar Uzel appears around km 3.6. After that, there is nothing for almost twenty kilometres, so buy your sandwich before setting off and do not expect to improvise at lunchtime. Sigüeiro makes up for it handsomely: you can sit down at Xantares do Carboeiro, Sabor Auténtico, Hostel-Restaurante-Bar Mirás or Parrillada La Cabaña, have coffee at Bico Café or Cafe 1900, and restock at Familia, A Despensa de Sonia, Covirán or Dia.
Practical tips for this stage
Stock up in Bruma
This is the important warning of the day. The central section has no bars, shops or hostels, so leave with water and food for a long six hours, even if the profile looks comfortable and you think you will be able to stop later.
The day's two fountains
Fonte de Bruma is right at the start, so it lets you set off with a full bottle. The next one is Fonte da Santiña, around km 19, just over an hour from Sigüeiro. There is half a day's walking between them, so ration your water accordingly.
Do not be fooled by the profile
Just because this stage is easier than the last one does not mean it is flat. The final 86 m of climbing, between km 24.3 and the finish, feel long if you have pushed hard across the plain. Save something for walking into Sigüeiro rather than dragging yourself there.
Choose footwear for mud
Between A Senra, A Calle, O Carballo and A Casanova, the surface constantly switches between dirt and tarmac, while the woodland sections through Os Carrás become muddy easily after rain. Waterproof footwear makes a real difference on this particular stretch.
Frequently asked questions about stage 2
Is it easier than the stage from A Coruña to Bruma?
Much easier. It is 28 km and takes around 6.2 hours, with 254 m of ascent and 336 m of descent, compared with the previous day's 754 m of climbing. There are still a few rises, but none compares with the climb to Hospital de Bruma.
Where can I refill my water?
At Fonte de Bruma, at the start, and at Fonte da Santiña, around km 19. The latter is just over an hour from Sigüeiro and is the day's last reliable water point, so it is worth stopping even if you are not thirsty.
Is there anywhere to eat halfway?
Practically nowhere. Casa Graña and Cafe Bar Uzel are within the first few kilometres, and after that there is nothing until the entrance to Sigüeiro, where you will find restaurants, bars and supermarkets. This is a stage for carrying your own food.
Where is the final climb?
It starts at km 24.3 and continues to the end of the stage at km 28: 86 m of ascent at an average gradient of 2.3%. It is not hard in itself, but it comes after many hours of walking and feels more noticeable than the figures suggest.
