The botafumeiro of Santiago Cathedral

What is the botafumeiro?

The botafumeiro is a giant silver-plated brass censer weighing 62 kilograms and standing 1.60 metres tall. Hung from a rope attached to a pulley mechanism in the central dome of the Cathedral, eight men called "tiraboleiros" swing it until it reaches a speed of 68 km/h, travelling a 65-metre arc from end to end of the transept nave at a height of 20 metres.

The spectacle lasts barely two minutes, but it is absolutely mesmerising. The incense smoke fills the Cathedral, the rope creaks, the enormous censer passes just above the heads of the faithful and the scent of myrrh and incense permeates the entire temple. It is one of those moments that stays engraved in a pilgrim's memory forever.

Origin and history

The tradition dates back to at least the 11th century, although the current botafumeiro is an 1851 replica (the original silver one was stolen by Napoleon's troops in 1809). Its original function was practical: to purify the Cathedral air when hundreds of pilgrims arrived after weeks of walking with barely any chance to wash. The incense smoke masked the odours and, according to medieval belief, disinfected the environment.

Throughout history there have been famous accidents: in 1499 the botafumeiro flew out through a window during Catherine of Aragon's visit, although nobody was hurt. Today security measures are rigorous and the mechanism is checked before each use.

When to see it

The botafumeiro does not operate every day. It is used on major liturgical feast days (25 July, St James's Day, is a safe bet) and when a group of pilgrims or confraternity pays the corresponding fee (around 450 euros per use). In practice, during high season it operates quite frequently. Check the Cathedral's calendar or ask at the Pilgrim Office when collecting your Compostela.