La etapa, paso a paso
A Laxe: joining the Vía de la Plata
Anyone arriving here from Ponferrada already carries over 214 km of Ribeira Sacra canyons, terraced vineyards and the quiet farmland of the Deza on their legs. At A Laxe the Camino de Invierno stops walking alone: it joins the Camino Sanabrés coming up from Ourense and the Vía de la Plata, and from this point both routes share yellow arrows and the same trail all the way to the Praza do Obradoiro. The change is usually noticeable — more pilgrims, more waymarking, and slightly busier albergues.
A Laxe to Silleda: one last rise before the descent
The first kilometres climb gently before the long downhill that defines this stage begins. Silleda, the main town of the Deza district, is the biggest settlement of the day, with the church of San Lourenzo, shops, a pharmacy and several albergues. It's the natural stop to refuel or simply grab a coffee before heading back into the woods.
Silleda–A Bandeira–Dornelas: rural Deza
Leaving Silleda on forest tracks running parallel to the road, the Camino reaches A Bandeira, with its small public albergue Santa Olaia, then continues through hamlets to Dornelas, notable for its Romanesque church with an unusual double archway. The landscape turns into oak, chestnut and eucalyptus woodland, dotted with hórreos and stone cruceiros typical of rural Galicia.
Down to the Ulla: San Miguel de Castro and Ponte Ulla
The Camino keeps descending toward the Ulla valley, passing the hermitage of San Miguel de Castro on the way, and, close to Ponte Ulla, the Gundián recreational area among oak groves. The river Ulla is crossed on its bridges — the old stone bridge alongside the high-speed AVE railway viaduct, visible from the crossing itself — leaving Pontevedra province behind and entering A Coruña.
The final climb to Outeiro
After crossing the Ulla comes the last real effort of the day: about 4 km of steady climbing into Outeiro, already in the municipality of Vedra. Outeiro has no shops, so make sure water and food are sorted in Silleda or Ponte Ulla beforehand. From here only 20.5 km remain to Santiago de Compostela, covered on the final stage of the Camino de Invierno.
Qué ver en la etapa 9
Hermitage of San Miguel de Castro
A small hermitage donated by Doña Urraca to the Church of Santiago back in the 12th century, and rebuilt several times since. A modest but very old link between this district and the cathedral in Compostela.
Church of Dornelas
A rural Romanesque church that surprises with the double archway on its portal, an unusual detail for churches in this area and well worth a short stop.
Bridges over the Ulla at Ponte Ulla
The crossing pairs the old stone bridge with the towering AVE high-speed railway viaduct spanning the valley — a striking image that symbolically marks the entrance into A Coruña province.
Church of Santa María Magdalena (Ponte Ulla)
A church with Romanesque elements right by the village of Ponte Ulla, a good spot to pause before tackling the final climb to Outeiro.
Dónde dormir en Outeiro
Silleda offers the widest choice of the day, with a public albergue, a private one and a couple of guesthouses in town. A Bandeira has a small public albergue (Santa Olaia) and a private one, handy if you'd rather split the stage. Ponte Ulla has guesthouses for pilgrims who prefer to leave the final climb for the next morning. Outeiro itself has a simple public albergue run by the Vedra municipality — basic, but enough for one night. Since this is where the Camino Sanabrés merges with the Camino de Invierno, pilgrim numbers pick up noticeably, so booking ahead or arriving early in high season is worth it.
Dónde comer y reponer fuerzas
Silleda is the best place for a proper meal, with pilgrim menus and classic inland Galician dishes — caldo gallego, empanada, octopus and local meats. A Bandeira and Ponte Ulla offer more modest but sufficient options. Since Outeiro has no shops or bars at all, eat and fill your water bottle before starting the final climb.
Consejos prácticos para esta etapa
Stock up before Outeiro
Outeiro has no shops or bars. Buy food and water in Silleda, or at the very latest in Ponte Ulla, before the final ascent.
Protect your knees on the descent
With 565 m of descent against only 294 m of climbing, trekking poles help protect your joints, especially on the steeper stretches down toward the Ulla.
Expect more pilgrims from here on
Once the Camino de Invierno merges with the Camino Sanabrés at A Laxe, foot traffic increases noticeably. Start early or book ahead if you want a quieter albergue.
Roadside sections
Some stretches run close to the N-525 or on tracks shared with farm vehicles. Take extra care, especially in low light.
Preguntas frecuentes sobre la etapa 9
How many kilometres have I walked from Ponferrada by the time I reach A Laxe?
About 214.3 km, adding up the first eight stages of the Camino de Invierno through the Ribeira Sacra, Monforte de Lemos, Chantada and Rodeiro.
What does it mean that the route 'merges' with the Camino Sanabrés at A Laxe?
From A Laxe onward, the Camino de Invierno and the Camino Sanabrés (coming from the Vía de la Plata) follow the exact same trail and waymarking all the way to Santiago de Compostela, even though pilgrims on each route arrive via a different itinerary.
Are there services in Outeiro?
No. Outeiro has no shops or bars, so stock up in Silleda or, at the very least, in Ponte Ulla before the final climb.
How far is it to Santiago after Outeiro?
20.5 km, covered on the last stage of the Camino de Invierno, Outeiro to Santiago de Compostela.
Is this a demanding stage?
Overall it's more downhill than uphill (565 m versus 294 m), which makes it fairly manageable, though the final 4 km climb into Outeiro asks for one last effort right after the descent to the Ulla valley.
